12/2/2023 0 Comments Custom fan shroud![]() ![]() ![]() Not that its ever had anything overflow into it of significance. The JAZ over flow bottle on the right has a valve so you can drain it when and where you want. Here's a picture of the fan shroud installed. This shows the idea of the fan blade being 1/2 in and 1/2 out of the shroud View attachment 1714968690 Here's the anorexic looking fan mocked up with freshly painted shroud. I guess I could say it's low drag for increased horsepower. I'm really shocked it cooled so well without the fan shroud. Five 1" cuts stacked on the right next to the C-clamp pictured below. The 1" cut really takes a lot of meat off the fan. This was done 1 1/2 years and 3458 miles ago. Like I said before it's a MP 5 blade fan cut down 1" so it would clear the inlet tube and be lower than the top of the radiator (don't cut my fingers off). I can run my fingernail against this paint enough to file it and it will not scratch. So I painted it VHT wrinkle paint baked in an oven. I wanted a durable finish on the shroud that didn't need the maintenance of bare aluminum. Here's the detail of the foam on the bottom of the shroud. Neat, but would have taken me forever to cut something this large. The tape is so the aluminum doesn't get all scratched up from the jigsaw bouncing on it. Troy cut the hole with a handheld jigsaw. That info came from a past employee of a large automobile and industrial radiator manufacture explained to me the design of a fan shroud. The optimum depth of the shroud is when the pitch of the fan blades are showing 1/2 in and 1/2 out of the shroud. So for my 16" fan I added 1.6" to 16" and cut my hole at 17.6". View attachment 1714968683 The optimum hole diameter for shroud take the fan diameter and add 10% of the fan diameter. We added foam to make a tight seal and to protect the shroud from rubbing into the radiator tubes/fins. I also had the upper shroud tab welded onto the radiator along this centerline. This way we would know where to start the center of the fan shroud opening later. When the radiator was still in the car I marked the centerline of the water pump translated to the radiator itself. So we thinned the aluminum out some and also made the shroud end rails fit more flush. But the aluminum was too thick for them even after I bent them out some. We put these on the existing Champion holes. The 20 gauge aluminum sheet was $21.75 for a 24" x 48" piece. That aluminum angle is 1/16" thick and 3/4" by 1/2". So I traded some parts with Troy and he said he'd make me a shroud if I helped. The factory 68-69 and 70-72 V-8 shrouds needed cutting to end up with a marginal shroud. Radiator Works in Northridge, Ca did that and added a aluminum tab on top to help attach a shroud. The upper hose inlet tube had to be moved outward to fit any fan shroud. I run the short Jaguar fan clutch (Hayden #2765) because of the thick radiator and 70-up taller aluminum water pump. The car still performed pretty darn good with a skimpy looking fan and no shroud. So I cut off each blade of a 5 blade and made a fan. When we first built the motor, the Champion upper radiator hose mounted way too close to the center and hit my 5 blade MP fan kit. The fan by itself just could not pull enough air without the car moving. Once in 88 degree heat I got stuck in road construction barely moving for 20 minutes. No major cooling problems, but I don't run a fan shroud. I run distilled water and Justice Brothers Radiator Cooler (RC/22P) and Justice Brothers Cooling System Protector ( CSP/1P). Radiator looks great inside, no rust, and no measured electrolysis. I've put 3458 miles on the motor in 1 ½ years and driven a few times 80 miles to/from Willow Springs Raceway racing 60 laps/150 miles going about 1 rpm on straights. I have a Champion 4 core 228221 radiator that has performed well in my new 416 stroker small block.
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